When I was in college (oh so many years ago) My parents were taking me to Paris and my dad gave me a cassette tape (that’s how long ago) that claimed to teach basic French in 30 days. Ha! Oh how I practiced. Not really. However, I did learn some important phrases. How to order a beer. “Une Biere sil vous plait” . Is this the smoking section? “Est-ce que c est une section Fumeur ?”….and of course I knew how to ask if someone wanted to sleep with me, all thanks to Lady Marmalade; “voulez-vous coucher avec moi?”. Sing along if you know it. Don’t judge. I was 20. I am proud to say that I can still remember these phrases. Not to brag, but I can also count to 6 and say thank you and goodbye…. A linguistic genius I am. Fast forward a few decades and I’m back in France. Southern France. ….So bonjour and welcome to my post on some of the magnificent medieval towns Southern France has to offer……

Narrow cobblestone alleys, ancient castles, art museums and cozy cafes….Southern France is all of these things and more. There is actually a train that you can take along the Riviera that stops at the most amazing little towns on the Mediterranean. Each town has it’s own interesting and distinct vibe. A fantastic Picasso Museum, The hometown of Paul Cezanne, countless castles, amazing beaches and tasty treats known as “Madeilenes” to enjoy with a coffee are some of the things you can experience along the way……

Getting There

Flying into Nice, France is a good starting point for exploring the Riviera and Southern France. Flights from NYC to Nice take around 7.5 hours non stop. Nice City Center is an easy 20 minute tram ride ( Tram Line 2) from the Nice Cote d’Azur Airport. Easy Peasy. Fare is under 2 euros.

Towns to Visit

Antibes

Antibes- It’s about 20 minutes by train from Nice to Antibes and costs about 6 to 7 euros on the direct TER regional train from Nice Villa Station. Tickets can be bought right at the station. This was one of my favorite towns in Southern France! The sites are about a 10 minute walk from the station.

–Visit the Musee Picasso– The museum itself is dedicated entirely to Picasso and showcases artwork he created during his stay in Antibes. The museum is actually a historic medieval chateau. Can this get any better? Pablo lived at this chateau in 1946 and used part of the castle as his workshop. Lucky fella. He also took in an injured owl during his stay here…so yes. It did get better! His owl friend makes an appearance in several of his paintings and sculptures. Tickets cost around 12 euros and can be bought right at the entrance. The small sculpture garden in back should not be missed for the views of the sea! Come early, there was a line to get in when we left.

Spend Time at the Beach– The beach is a five minute walk from the Musee Picasso. The water is clear and warm. The beach is free. The scenery is priceless.

Have lunch at La Cafe Brun– I had an incredible pastry-like-tart for lunch filled with olives, diced tomatoes and feta. We scored a table in a little nook with open windows overlooking the town. I would have sat here for hours. The place is family run and has a relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

Stroll through the Safranier District– You can see artists at work in their workshops and buy handmade pottery, jewelry, paintings and other unique and original items here. The area is beautifully adorned with colorful houses and climbing flowers everywhere you look. Certainly worth an hour or so.

Hike the rugged Le Sentier du Littoral- It’s a 3 mile loop that takes you on a narrow path with a lot of cliffside stone steps. A lot. The views of the turquoise water and hidden coves make every uneven steep step worth it. Wear good shoes and watch your step!

Cannes

Cannes– 35 minutes by train from Nice and around 12 euros…Cannes is great for a day trip! Home to the Cannes Film Festival, beautiful beaches and an interesting old town.

Walk Along the Waterfront Promenade- there’s a ton of shopping to be had along the waterfront.. Designer shops line the streets alongside boutique stores and cafes. It doesn’t cost anything to look, after all. If you get tired, there are public beaches right off the promenade to relax on or ice cream shops if you want a tasty treat.

Climb 109 Steps to the Castle of la Castre– There is a museum inside the Castle of la Castre if you choose to visit. Once at the top, you will be rewarded with amazing views over the Bay of Cannes. Travel tip; there is a bus that you can take up the hill to the castle from town. Palm Bus line 10 will take you there for under 2. euros. The castle is now a museum with an assortment of artifacts. Admission is 3.50 euros and hours are Tuesday through Sunday 10- 1 and 2-6… or should I say; deux – six.

Take a boat to Saint Honorat Island- This is something I wanted to do oh so badly, and did not get to….all the more reason to come back. There is a group of monks that inhabit the island (they have been here since the 5th century. well, not these monks. They would be really really old) and they make their own wine!!! Suddenly I am feeling a calling…not a religious calling. a fermented grape kind of a calling. To live on an island with all of my friends and make wine all day. Or drink wine all day. Anyway, you can do a wine tasting here, buy wine and their local honey and visit the abby. Tickets for the ferry are 20. euro R/T and can be bought right at the port.

Aix-en-Provence-

Aix en Provence– A little further away, but worth the trip… you can take the FlixBus (3 hrs) for around 20. euros or the TER regional train from Nice which takes a little over 3 hrs. from Nice Villa Station. I would even recommend an overnight stay.

Get Lost in the Narrow Streets– Shop for local chocolate, stop for a cappuccino and a madeilene (yummy french treats) and marvel at the fantastically magical architecture.

Visit the Musee Granet- Awesome museum with a permanent collection of Paul Cezanne’s work (he grew up in Aix de Provence) and temporary exhibits like the Paul McCartney photo exhibit that was there when we were visiting. There is a great collection of sculptures on the first floor as well. Open Tuesday through Sunday from noon until 6. General admission is 14. euros. The museum building is actually a 17th century former Knights of Malta Priory….I don’t even know what that means…but it sounds totally cool and quite mysterious.

Stop in at the Saint-Jean-de-Malte Cathedral– What a cool cathedral!! built in the 1200’s in the Gothic style. Inside you will find Delacroix’s Crucifiction and a magnificent alter. Admission is free but check the hours. The cathedral is right next door to the Musee Granet.

Visit Paul Cezanne’s Studio– About a half an hour walk from town is the Atelier Cezanne, Paul Cezanne’s last studio. It is a small exhibit. The chalet grounds are beautiful. I saw the chalet from the outside, but did not tour the studio.

Arles

Arles- If you are traveling from Nice , Arles is under 4 hours by train. I consider it well worth the ride. Again, I would suggest an overnight here if you make the trip. No car needed within the city walls. Vincent Van Gogh lived in Arles during the most creative period of his life when he created Starry Night Over the Rhone, Sunflowers and The Bedroom to name a few…

Follow the Van Gogh Signs Around the City- There are markers and large panels that correlate with a map leading you right to some of Van Gogh’s famous viewpoints. At the viewpoints there are reproductions of his work, some of which include The Ampitheatre, the site where his yellow house stood, the Drawbridge and of course…the Night Cafe! It feels so surreal to stand where he stood when he created these masterpieces. The walking tour is free of charge and takes around 2 hours.

Visit the La Cafe La Nuit– You can have dinner, drinks and coffee here. They do not have “absinthe” on the menu…..You can say the absinthe is absent. Perhaps Van Gogh and Gauguin drank it all.

Explore the Arles Ampitheatre- Obviously can’t compare to the one in Rome, but a fraction of the price to visit and explore. 11. euros for adults and free if you are 18 or younger. Like me. haha.Built in 90 AD , originally used for gladiator games and chariot races.Fun fact; the ampitheatre is still open for concerts and events.

Nice

Last, but not least: Nice. With fun local markets, Mediterranean beaches, museums and a ton of history, Nice deserves a few days to wander and explore.

Walk up Castle Hill- You can either walk up Castle Hill or take the free elevator. The top offers amazing views,, the old port and an artificial waterfall.

Visit the Cours Saleya Market– Open Tuesday through Sunday, the open air market has tons of fresh produce, flowers, crafts and yummy food. Try the crispy chickpea pancake!

The Musee National Marc Chagall– This museum has the largest public collection of Marc Chagall’s work . The building was actually created to display his art which also includes 3 of his stained glass windows and a large outdoor mosaic. Tickets cost around 10. euros and the museum is open every day but Tuesday. Fun Fact: Marc Chagall lived to be 97 years old and was still painting until the day he died.

Where to Eat

La Cafe Brun– My favorite place in Antibes. Family-run. Great food and fantastic atmosphere.

Le Cafe La Nuit – Painted by Vincent Van-Gogh in the 1800s..Known also as The Night Cafe. .you can eat and drink here just for the mear history of it. Arles, France.

Madelineine’s De Christophe depuis 2006-One of the best places to get Madeleines in Aux-de Provence. Choose from chocolate dipped, coconut, lemon, nutella, plain and several other kinds.

Where To Stay

Nice Hotel Cote d Azur- If you base yourself in Nice, this is a good choice close to the train station ( about 5 minutes) with adorable rooms in a boutique hotel.

L’ Arlatan– If you choose to stay in Arles , this hotel is in a historical palace. It’s 10 – 15 minutes from the train station and has a pool and a hidden courtyard.

So… if you are interested in exploring the southern coast of France and do not want to rent a car, you could do any or all of these little medieval towns from Cannes using trains and buses. Cannes could be used as a base, or a starting point. Each little town has a lot to offer and although they can be done as day trips, there is certainly enough to keep exploring with an overnight in each. Visit some art museums, enjoy a day at the beach, shop at the markets and drink some French wine. Listen to the gentle waves along the coast while you sleep near 1,000 year old fortresses and historic chalets. If you are interested, I have a cassette tape I can lend you. 30 days and you shall be fluent. No money back guarentee because the store that sold it closed 30 years ago. And last but not least, a shout out to my dad for believing I would actually listen to that tape and learn anything of importance….and also for passing on to me the love of travel and adventure. merci beaucoup, Dad (and mom). Bonne journee to you all.