From behind the iron curtain, a mystical and magical society was waiting to be free again…. a country that only regained it’s independence in 1991 when the Soviet Union crumbled and the curtain was raised. The region was originally settled by Baltic tribes thousands of years ago, occupied by several regimes throughout history, yet they held on to their folklore, cultural roots and historical landmarks all along the way. Now Latvia is a beautiful land to visit with stunning National Parks, great nightlife and an abundance of historical sites. Interested? Join us on a journey through Latvia’s hidden past, magical present and prosperous future….

Getting There

Getting to Latvia from the U.S. is not that complicated…getting there from European cities is even easier. We flew from NYC to Paris (I would recommend any other airport in the world) and then made the connection to Riga (the capital of Latvia). After landing in Riga, we rented a car from Whiz Car Rentals… I should have known from the name that it would’nt be good (more on that later), then drove 20 minutes to the city center. If you do not rent a car, Ubers are very cheap and easily obtained at the airport.

What to see and Do

Visit Rundale Palace – About a one hour drive from the capital of Riga, you will find the overwhelmingly beautiful and extravegent baroque Rundale Palace. Built from 1736 to 1740 and then again from 1764 to 1768, the palace has mesmerizing frescoes, beautifully decorated rooms and even it’s own art gallery! . There are different prices for admission depending what you want to see. We visited the main palace and the gardens. The house has so many rooms to explore and the gardens are fantastic with several walking paths and even an outside cafe.

A combination ticket for the gardens and the palace main exhibit was $17.00. Parking is free.

Explore Bauska Castle– Bauska Castle is about 10 minutes away from Rundale Palace. The oldest part of the castle was built by the Teutonic Knights of the Livonian Order in the 1440s. Sounds very DiVinci Code-esque….You can climb all around the crumbling ruins of the original fortress and imagine you are a 14th century knight or a fair lady. There’s also a cool hike around the perimeter of the castle with awesome views of the river.

Admssion to the castle grounds is $ 9. Euros for adults and 4.50 for students.

Take a guided tour of The Latvian KGB Headquarters- We took a one hour tour of the administration offices, prisons and execution chambers at the KGB Headquarters on the outskirts of town in Riga. Our guide was fantastic and did a great job of emphasizing the atrocities the USSR inflicted on the Latvian people, while keeping things fun and humorous. He crowded all of the men in a prison cell and let the women point and laugh at them. He gave the middle finger to a poster of Stalin. Cold war comedy at it’s finest. He also reminded us of the gift of freedom. He concluded the tour by saying that at this very moment in time, we may all exit the door and enjoy our freedom, something he himself could not have done less than 40 years ago….

Visit Gauja National Park– Trains run regularly from city centre to Segulda ( the town where Gauja NP is located) and the trip takes about an hour. The town itself is worth the visit with great little cafes and shops. The entrance to the park is about a 20 minute walk from the train station and it’s free to enter. There was so much to do inside the park that I would allow an entire day to explore. We spent time investigating the castle (4. euros to enter) and then took the arial tram across a gorge to another part of the park where you can explore a former sanitarium that is actually repurposed into a wellness center and rehab. If you ever saw the movie Shutter Island, this felt like the movie setting. Creepy vibes let my imagination run wild.

We also did the bobsled within the park right near the tram. Correction; my son did the bobsled. I took the chairlift down. My son claimed it was one of the most terrifying things he had ever been on. Coming from a kid who bungeed off a bridge in New Zealand, that says a lot. I would have had a heart attack half way down and flown off the rails (since there were no guard rails or safety nets to keep my corpse on track). Imagine Weekend at Bernies going terribly wrong. There was an entire adventure park at the bottom of the mountain with ziplines, obstacle courses and trampolines. We wished we had more time here!!! But not on the bobsled.

Take the elevator to the top of St Peter’s Church for views of the old town- For a few Euros you can jump on the elevator and head to the top of St Peter’s Church Tower . I found the elevator ride to be a bit wobbly and frightening and I found the rooftop terrace to be windy. Dare I say that the railing on the rooftop appeared to be around 3 feet tall!!!!??? I would have paid a few Euros to get back to ground level.

Bonus: St Peter’s holds free concerts most nights during the summer months. Check their schedule for times and performers and arrive early to get a seat.

On weekends in the summer months they also offer a chance to ride the elevator after dark to see the city at night…..That wouldn’t be scary at all.

Join a Balsam and chocolate Tasting at Black Magic- So….Balsam is a type of alcohol created hundreds of years ago in Latvia, claiming to have medicinal value due to the many herbs used to make it. Most of the ingredients are known, while a few are still undisclosed. Makes you wonder what’s in this concoction.. Eye of newt? Toe of frog? We did a tasting at one of the oldest and coolest bars in Riga, “Black Magic” where it is said that a pharmacist invented the drink in that very bar’s basement. Talk about strong!!! No wonder people thought it had healing powers…. After half a shot you feel fantastic! We tried 4 different varieties. I would tell you which my favorite was, but I have no recollection. It’s all a blur. I was cured of all momentary ailments, including my memory. Goodbye good judgement. adios self control.

Tastings were around 25. euros pp and included 4 shots of balsam, one shot of their moonshine and 2 of their homemade chocolates. You can buy samples or larger bottles to take home as gifts. Or as a gift to yourself..

Eat dinner in a medieval 1293 wine cellar– The Rozengrales (Vinarium civitatis rigensis) is considered Riga’s most authentic medieval restaurant with staff in midievil costume, a candlelight atmosphere and ancient recipes on their menu. The ambience alone is worth the visit. The food was great as well. Reservations seemed necessary. Prices were reasonable for Riga.

Wander the streets of old town– I could not get enough of the winding cobblestone streets lined with little shops and cafes in old town. Getting lost in the old town was more fun than knowing your way around. There were tiny bars tucked into alleyways, bell towers around every turn and live music from street performers and spilling out into the streets from outdoor cafes.

Where to Eat

Mr Fox – This was a great place for breakfast. They had a variety of things on the menu. I had the avocado toast and eggs. Perfect amount, perfect price!

Lido – OK… so I must admit that buffets are not my thing…but this was more like a cafeteria than a buffet. It’s a chain in Latvia with the most heavenly selection of food. You actually feel like you are in a Bavarian garden (it would feel touristy in a place like Busch Gardens, but not in the middle of Riga). They also serve alcohol, but that’s a given in Latvia. And the prices??? Well, I think little old frugal me ate there 3 separate times. I’m talking under 10. euros pp for a dinner of potato pancakes, beet soup , chocolate pudding and a glass of wine!!!!

Lucky Beer House – Had a fantastic chicken pesto and my son had an amazing burger. The windows look out at St Peters, which is about 20 feet from the Beer House.

Rozengrales – This is the restaurant housed in the 11th century wine cellar with traditional food and waitstaff dressed in medieval costumes.

Where to Drink

Black Magic – This was the historic Apothecary where Balsam was invented. I loved the medieval atmosphere with a Sherlock Holmes meets Dracula vibe. They make a plethora of mixed drinks that include Balsam and are served with a piece of their homemade chocolates.

DOM – Up about 5 flights of narrow stairs inside the restaurant, you will come to a spectacular roofdeck. Quaint, cozy and welcoming. We sat and enjoyed the view with a glass of prosecco.

Where To Stay

AC Hotel – AC Hotels are part of Marriott. This hotel was in a great location with everything you would expect from a Marriott. There are parking garages down the block if you rent a car and the hotel is within walking distance of old town.

Bright Designer Apartment in City Centre– We stayed here our last 3 nights in Riga. It was in a safe and secure apartment complex off a main street. The views were fantastic as we were top floor. The apartment had a bedroom, kitchen and living room with cathedral ceiling, wall to wall windows and a pull out couch. All for about 100. euros a night!!!!

Getting Around

We rented a car for part of the trip from Car Whiz located right at the airport. I would recommend using a more well known American company such as Hertz or Budget. This was the only car rental I have ever used where I had to either pay 20. euros extra for a car wash upon return, or wash and vacuum it myself. We opted to wash it ourselves which was nothing short of a calamity. 3 euros to self wash sounded like a good idea. Maybe if the directions were not in Latvian. They also charged 45. euros extra to take the car into Lithuania when the other companies did not.

Things I wished I had Time for

Take a boat ride on the Riga City Canal– The boat ride is about an hour on small, quaint wooden boats that go through the canal and out into the river. Tickets cost about 18. euros pp and can be bought on site.

Tour the House of the Blackheads– Yet another secret society to learn about. So mysterious…You can explore the exhibits inside the house if you purchase a ticket.

See a Free concert at St Peters- Check the entrance for a concert schedule and get there early to score a good seat!!!

Latvia may not be as well known as many other European cities, but that is what makes it so special. It has an untouched feel about it. Less touristy, more authentic. The history is what makes the people and the sites so interesting . Their Pagan roots and traditions make them mysterious and intriguing. Let the curtain forever remain lifted on the people of Latvia so that the world can get acquainted with this magical land and may their people remain as free as all humans should be.